There is a saying that only 6 degrees of acquaintances separate each person on earth - would you believe me if I told you a tiny ex-mining pueblo in Baja shrinks the distance to one of the wealthiest people on the planet to only a couple of degrees?
It’s an interesting example of the distortion in local real estate (and I would imagine, local politics) when a billionaire comes to town.
A couple weeks ago I mentioned we had met Giovanni, an Italian developer in La Paz who collects cars from the 80’s. He has a historic house for sale in Triunfo, a tiny pueblo midway between Todos Santos and La Paz.
He spends every Sunday, even in the low season, at the house showing it to people looking to buy a house, or simply looking to look. Like us.
Triunfo was a mining town back in the day. This part of Baja saw quite a bit of mining and still has some controversial activity. For all the wealth that was extracted, the towns themselves were nothing special, basically just company towns for the workers. The mining legacy includes a couple of streets of old historic buildings and arsenic in the water.
Today Triunfo’s main drag and a street of shops a block over are being restyled for tourism, to catch some of the weekend traffic during the high season coming from Cabo and Todos Santos and La Paz.
We arrive and text Giovanni. He tells us where the house is; very close to the cluster of attractions that include a cafe and bakery Cafe El Triunfo. The cafe is owned by a man from LA who used to have restaurants in Todos Santos and closed shop there as he saw that tiny market become quickly over saturated. Giovanni tells me all this, he claims there are 60 restaurants open in Todos Santos during high season.
Right now the Cafe El Triunfo is pretty much the only game in town here. Giovanni describes it as a gold mine for the owner, I’m not so sure. Its cute and the bread we try from the bakery is delicious, but much of this area is very sleepy most of the year. Perhaps seasonal cash cow would be a better description. Having said that, I’m no expert at local economics, and even if I were, the market here is quite skewed as you will see in a bit.
We walk a block off of the main drag and come to the house, it sits on a corner. We meet and greet and say hello to Giovanni’s mom, a slender pretty older lady with even more Italian flavoring her Spanish than her son has.
They speak Italian with each other. Later, when he is referring to her in a conversation with me, he calls her “Mama”. It’s charming. It makes me want to go to Italy this afternoon and stay for a year.
Given that isn’t an option, we settle for the next best thing, which turns out to be quite a good thing, actually. Giovanni gives us a tour of the house and town. It’s everything you could want from an Italian tour guide. Knowledgeable, opinionated, good backstory and punctuated with lots of hand waving and shoulder shrugs.
It turns out Giovanni is a history buff. He hiked and camped in these old towns and mountains when he was a teenager. He furnished the interior of this house with many antiques that he found or has picked up along the way. He photocopied old photos of the house's original family from local archives and framed them for the hallway.
Our tour starts in the kitchen. Mama, perhaps thinking we are potential buyers, mentions how nice and cool it is in there, compared to outside which is 90 degrees in the sun.
I nod politely, as sweat trickles down my back and I suppress the desire to start panting.
The kitchen is adorable and overstuffed with new appliances crammed into an old layout from before the days of closet-sized refrigerators.
The house plan is a bit odd. One hallway off the kitchen has two rooms on either side. Giovanni has staged both rooms as bedrooms, showing the house as a 2 bedroom with a kitchen and no living area.
The backyard is beautiful, with stone paving, a trellis, native plants, climbing bouganvillea and, unlike the house, features an inviting sitting area.
I feel the pull of Italy once again. I'm hoping that Mama will appear with a jug of cold wine and a cheese tray. Isn't that what Italian mamas do? Alas, my dream scenario does not materialize and we continue with the tour.
At the back we visit an outbuilding he restyled as a bunk house. He mentions it could be a possible rental for the owners of the main house, saying it has been plumbed for a kitchen and bath.
I ask him if he has experimented with AirBnB in any of his other properties.
Si! he did, and No! he doesn’t like it.
We have a friend with a rental house in Cabo who feels the same way - the simplicity of a lease and monthly rent wins out over the extra margin you can make with AirBnB, where you have to spend a lot more time in coordinating logistics and pleasing your customer.
This is one thing some new AirBnB hosts with landlord experience don’t always understand. When you host via AirBnB, your guest is not a tenant. Your guest is a customer.
The traditional tenant / landlord dynamic is rooted in a foundation of haves and have-nots. Not so with AirBnB guests. Your AirBnB guest might be a multi-millionaire couple in town for a festival.
We once stayed in an AirBnB with a rock hard old bed. We were supposed to stay for a month. I asked the host to replace the bed or at least buy a mattress topper. He proposed we split the cost of the new bed.
I pointed out that we would be gone in a month, and that we were his guests, not his tenant, so how did it make sense that I help him buy a new bed for the next guests, and the next?
He didn’t see it that way, and we parted ways amicably after he refunded our payment. I’m pretty sure that house was haunted, anyway, I was glad to leave.
I continue to observe controversy about AirBnB in expensive, tight markets that have a steady flow of tourist traffic. People rail against the company when they should be picketing their city, county and state officials.
AirBnB, like Uber, simply magnifies existing dysfunction in the market. A community neglects affordable housing for decades and suddenly AirBnB is the devil. Hotels serve up boring, undifferentiated, expensive rooms, and then get upset when - surprise! - people would prefer to spend less on homier options.
In Cabo, the taxi drivers continue to protest Uber, while they also continue to extort tourists for $40 and $50 cab rides from the airport, provide substandard service, forbid bus drivers to let tourists ride from the airport, and generally act like a mafia.
Back to Triunfo, where Uber is not even a topic of discussion given that the town population is probably about 12 people.
After our short tour of the 2 bedroom plus a kitchen house, we move out on the town, so to speak.
As we walk out onto the street, I try to buy a beer with lime and salt from a street vendor selling Micheladas - which are beer with lime, salt and clam juice.
I don’t want the clam juice, so they say they don’t have any beer. This is one of those alternate reality moments I often run into in Mexico. There is beer in plain sight but we are all supposed to pretend like that is not the case.
My fried gringa brain does not connect that if I offer to pay full price for the Michelada and just tell them to omit the clam juice, the beer will magically flow, like a miracle spring in the desert.
At any rate, I don’t have time to process because our Italian guide has moved ahead, talking to the air and pointing out this and that.
What emerges from the tour is an interesting fact.
A few years ago, Christy Walton, John Walton’s (of the Walmart family Waltons) widow, one of the richest women in the world, started buying property in Triunfo as well as quite a bit of land in the mountains near here. What is it like to be able to buy a whole mountain, let alone two or three?
Her people are scaling up on a sustainable tourism resort nearby as well. A quick google of water issues shows that she has negotiated rights to water in the region as well. This, of course, is essential to running a resort in the desert and also makes long term business sense, too.
Some members of the Getty family own a house here and in La Paz as well. If this blog were my full time gig, I’d have a lot more factoids for you.
Giovanni, like his Papa before him, has been in real estate in the area his whole life. He acquired the house we just toured years ago. I think he had another small house or building in the area that he sold awhile back, too.
Today, he alludes to the challenges sourcing smaller deals when everyone around the table knows that a new buyer with limitless cash is investing in the area, and has bought several buildings in town as well.
We finish our circular tour of a couple of blocks and arrive back in front of the house. We say goodbye to Giovanni, and Mama, who had stayed behind.
I purposely didn’t look up the selling price of the house because I wanted to guess after I had seen it, the town, and learned some of the backstory.
One of the benefits of being in a place for awhile is the shine wears off and you see beyond the mirage sold to short term visitors who are escaping a stressful home base in the US. My rose-colored view of Todos is less rosy now, having spent two low seasons here staying in the local’s barrio.
Quick tip that I used to think was obvious but now I’m not so sure:
Everyone in real estate here has a story of the hapless American who lost it all. There is a lot of info out there about local conditions that can help people avoid a bad experience.
For one thing, many tourist small towns have local listserv on the internet and often a local print newspaper targeted at English speakers. You should definitely start reading those sources if you are interested in buying property here.
One recent article in the Gringo Gazette (real name, I am not making that up) profiled a development company that is clearly on the ropes. This is public knowledge to the expat locals, but the company is still selling land lots in a new development near here.
I visited Ajijic and Lake Chapala, the oldest and biggest expat community (Americans and Canadians) in Mexico a couple years ago. I saw (and stayed in) concrete homes with barren small lots on unpaved streets, selling for $200K - $300K in the gringo side of town.
Anywhere near town center was even higher. To me the prices seemed quite high given the drug violence in surrounding towns and the fact that the only way out, really, is one easily blocked road that goes to GDL and the airport.
There seems to be an unspoken expat belief that their money also buys a value bubble that settles over the property.
This is sort of is true in areas like Cabo where the entire infrastructure is tuned to a different standard and so the bubble is bigger.
It is less understandable in Todos Santos where gringos with a bucket of money buy houses that back up to lots full of trash on streets ruled by barking dogs. Or clusters of beach homes so far out of town you can't walk to anything other than the beach.
Having said all that, there is no upside for those who only blog about the risks, i.e. yours truly at the moment. The upside is in the action, right?
Like our American friends who live in Baja and have 3 rentals. They lost a lot of money, no, not in Mexican real estate, but in the 2008 stock market crash in the good ol' USA.
This was just as they were getting ready to retire, so they had to figure out a way to get some cash flow going. Three houses in Mexico (plus the one they live in) sounds to me like way too many toilets to keep flushing, but they are energetic, positive and smart even as they are approaching 70.
The diversification means their overall cap rate is 7% even with one tenant who is not paying full rent and hasn’t for months. They talked to their attorney about eviction, she said it would take a year to go through the process and once you serve notice, tenants will quit paying rent and there is nothing you can do until it is resolved.
Her advice was to slow walk repairs. I’ve seen the house, it’s too bad because it’s a sweet house with a beautiful small pool area. It must be hard for them to watch it deteriorate. But if they keep up with repairs, the current people may never leave.
Suddenly, AirBnB seems more attractive once again. At least with AirBnB, if you have a vampire guest, they will be leaving soon, if not, they have no legal recourse if you hire your large primo from La Neza to go forcibly evict them.
If you have a vampire renter, they get their hooks into a lease and hang around as long as possible. To get them out you have to pay an attorney (one source paid $110 an hour) and navigate the Mexican courts.
On the way back to the car, we stop at the C store to buy a Corona, with no clam juice, to share in our air conditioned car. I tell Sergio OK, my guess is that the house is about $250,000. His eyes get wide. I googled the listing (oh the wonders of google).
I’m nowhere even close.
The asking price is $349,000.
Sergio said, wow, I could live on that the rest of my life.
And with that, we toast to Giovanni’s future and head back to Todos Santos.
La Paz doesn’t usually make the glitz list for Americans vacationing to Mexico. Even though a couple of the richest American families (Walton and Getty) have homes in the La Paz area, Cabo San Lucas tends to steal the mainstream spotlight, and Todos Santos is enjoying an extended Instagram-fueled ride as a trendy offbeat destination.
Tourism is important here but it is not the only game in town, so La Paz retains a bustling down-to-earth working class vibe that is missing from luxe Cabo and certainly from sleepy Todos - at least the bustling part.
We have found ourselves heading into La Paz more often this trip and I’ve grown to like it more and more.
The older historic part of town retains many old buildings and happily hosts a (mostly) organic farmers market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The inevitable cathedral is down this way, as well as a few streets with a local vibe from the traditional mercado and cool small businesses, many started by young people.
Today we are making the rounds looking for our first postcards for our inaugural Postcard Patron Society mail out. I asked at the Allende bookstore and the owner there directs me to the Galeria Casa Parra down the way.
We didn’t find any compelling postcards in the Galeria, but we did meet Claudia, the owner, and checked out a fabulous selection of handicrafts. Even though I’m not a big shopper, (I don’t want a house someday that looks like a cruise ship gift shop), I’ve seen a lot of Mexican souvenir stores, and this one is a good one.
If you are a big shopper, you have to be careful in the bigger markets and tourist areas, and I’m not just talking about keeping your iPhone on the down low. Lots of merch for sale in the tourist areas in Mexico is made in Guatemala and even China and India.
That right there tells you something about global wages, that it is cheaper for Mexicans vendors (who don’t make much, either) to import handmade items from other developing countries and resell them.
The Galeria Casa Parra’s offerings are 100% Hecho en Mexico, and even though I am very tempted to buy at least 7 things in the shop, I remain on task - which is sourcing postcards.
As we leave the store, I’m wilting a bit so we decide to regroup over an iced coffee at my favorite coffee stop in Baja so far, Doce Cuarenta
Doce Cuarenta is an excellent coffee shop with some super cute Baja swag in one corner, various trendy coffee doodads (Chemex, anyone?) in another, good food from a real kitchen, and real-deal AC, not always a given in this part of the world, where sometimes "air conditioned" is open to interpretation. We order our coffee at the counter, snag a table in front of the window and plug in our phones.
While we are waiting for our brew, I go over to the gifty corner. Our house sitting hosts have a coffee mug from this shop; we accidentally broke the handle the first week we were here, and I want to replace it.
The broken one will join our other two ceramic travel mugs that lost their handles along the way - one from a Goodwill in Santa Rosa, the other from Montana. Our small group of handleless mugs fits our current pared down reduce reuse travel lifestyle.
While I’m there looking at the coffee mugs and contemplating buying a cool t-shirt I don’t need, I notice - lo and behold - postcards! Cute postcards of baja scenes featuring hand drawn art from a local artist. Gooooaaal!
Later, after our coffee and a trip to the grocery store, I am craving a lunch that does not originate from the Corn food group, the traditional starting place for most Mexican meals.
Spanish food is usually a good bet in Central Mexico so I decide to give it a try here. I google “Tapas” (and, well OK, “wine bar” also). I come across a nearby charming place, at least according to Google.
We arrive and sure enough, it is a charming, small restored adobe building, painted clean white with a palapa roof. It even says La Casita Tapas Wine Bar right out front.
We park the car under a tree, in front of a couple of vintage 80’s cars parked on the street. Sergio stops to admire them - the 80s is his favorite decade by far and like many men, he sees cars as a defining element of an era.
We walk into the restaurant and are the only patrons. I’ve gotten used to this here; even in Mexico City we would sometimes be the only people in the place. If possible, I like to eat when I’m hungry, not wait around with my tummy growling until the clock strikes a certain time, so that means we are sometimes early for dinner or late for lunch.
The waiter brings the menu and, given that it is a tapas place, there is a puzzling, extensive array of sushi. We think perhaps the business recently changed owners and there hasn’t been time to change the sign outside. (Not uncommon in Mexico, where "for rent" signs, for example, may or may not be true in the present moment.)
We ask the waiter and he says, yes, this is La Casita Tapas Wine Bar. I guess it just happens to have a generous helping of sushi on the menu.
Through talking with him we learn that we have a fun connection to this place we have never visited before.
On our first driving trip to Mexico, when we crossed the border in Tijuana and drove down the Baja highway, we celebrated our safe arrival in Todos Santos 3 days later at - guess where - the La Casita Tapas Wine Bar!
The La Paz location is the second La Casita. Both are owned by a Mexican chef Sergio Rivera who worked in the US and as a chef on a yacht before “hanging up his sea legs”, (as his bio reports) and opening La Casita Tapas Wine Bar in Todos Santos, and now in La Paz.
On a recent visit to the La Casita in Todos, we saw Sergio, on a warm sweaty evening, alternating eating with his family, jumping up to help his low-season short staff crew, taking orders, and socializing with patrons. There were fans keeping the air moving, the bartender came out from behind the bar to keep the drinks flowing; it was kind of like a private party. I love restaurant people and entrepreneurs in general that actually hop in and work alongside their staff when needed.
Back to the La Casita in La Paz, where there is La Air Conditioning, too - so we order some delicious rolls, cold wine, and have a lovely sushi lunch at the tapas place.
We leave and as we are approaching our car, we see a tall thin man with RayBans, a pink polo shirt, jeans and loafers with no socks. He is wiping down one of the 80’s cars with a hand buffer.
Sergio, who secretly wants to buy a bunch more “accessories” for cleaning our car, strikes up a conversation.
We learn that he lives in the house behind us, and he has 2 more vintage cars in his garage. His Spanish has an Italian accent. He is originally from Rome but grew up in the La Paz area.
We introduce ourselves and he says, “My name is Giovanni”. I think, of course it is.
I settle back to enjoy observing the conversation between a native Roman and a Capitolino from Mexico City, who proceed with an inordinate amount of hand waving, exaggeration, shrugs of the shoulder, and fine tuned kvetching that finally arrives at the inevitable conclusion that ai, life is hard, but what are you going to do?
Giovanni’s father was a builder and developer. As Giovanni was growing up, the family lived in Canada, Arizona and finally in La Paz.
I have run the gauntlet to get my 4 year residency card here in Mexico, and I can barely get my head around the idea of buying an inexpensive apartment here, let alone develop property. I marvel at how easily some people appear to flow between countries, doing business, making money, because the truth is, it’s a lot of paperwork, tax headaches and risk.
Giovanni is also a developer. After living here for over 20 years, he has an insider’s view about the local real estate scene. He’s a dream contact for me as I’m always curious about the health of the local market.
La Paz real estate took a hit in 2008 and never really recovered fully, due to some bad press, increase in local drug related crime, and the ascendency of Cabo San Lucas in the luxury second home market.
He mentions a small town near here, Triunfo, that is on the rise as a tourist attraction. He spends every Sunday there, showing a historic home that he bought years ago and has remodeled. We make plans to stop by the following weekend. I share more about our Triunfo trip in this post, leaving you with this teaser:
They say there are only 6 degrees of separation between each person on earth - would you believe me if I told you a tiny ex-mining pueblo in Baja shrinks the distance to one of the wealthiest people on the planet to only a couple of degrees? It’s an interesting example of the distortion in local real estate (and I would imagine, local politics) when a billionaire comes to town.
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Gorgeous challenging mountain hike to #ElTepozteco, the pyramid above the tiny #pueblomagico #Tepoztlan. Its more of a climb than a hike so take your time. The surrounding mountain jungle/forest is gorgeous. See some pics in the photo album linked below this post.
Wiki sez it was erected in honor of Tepoztecatl, the #Aztec god of the alcoholic beverage #pulque. I was dyin but it was #soworthit - wide open view of Cuernavaca and the valley of Mexico.
You can hike to the top for free, but you have to pay to actually climb on the pyramid. This isn't completely clear in the info sign at the bottom of the mountain and its a drag to realize this at the top if you forget your pesos.
Save some time for a #michelada and#temescal (sweat lodge) and of course, pulque in the town when you are done.
Here is a link to my photo album for this trip.
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