Wandering in Coyoacán at the golden hour, late afternoon, the light and colors remind me of Venice. As the warm light fades, we pass through the plaza, looking for a place to stop for una copita.
The cafes facing the plaza are lovely, with a nice upscale vibe you also find in Paris or New York; understandably, they cater to upper class locals and tourists.
I'm holding out for discovering a local place anchored in the layers of #placemagic that make Coyoacán special - color and nature, culture, history, art, activism, broad animated plazas and quiet cloistered estates.
We pass an open doorway in an old building catty-corner to the Delegacion offices, inside is a wide ancient stairwell lit by candles. I can’t resist. We climb the oldest wooden stairs I’ve ever walked on, creaking and about to collapse at any of the many moments in the last 100 years. Tonight they have decided to hold out for a bit longer, leading us to a charming upstairs bar.
The owners have stripped out the interior walls yet left some of the doorframes standing. The remaining brick walls with stone infill are unfinished, the ceiling of dark wide rafters is equally exposed. French doors with massive original wooden shutters open out onto small balconies that look over the plaza. I want to walk around the room and touch every surface.
The small bar is busy, I wonder if we will have to wait. Looking around a corner, through a freestanding door frame - que milagro! A corner table with a red velvet bench seat for wallflowers, by an open window welcoming us and the evening breeze.
We order drinks and chat for an hour or so. I look at my sweet man, his handsome face a blend of old Arabic Spain with a shade of Aztec, dark eyes flashing with crazy modern Mexican energy. I listen to his lovely espanol as a deeper piece of me settles into the ongoing flow of years in this old room, building, plaza and place in space.
Below are some more photos I posted on Facebook. Give us a like while you are there! <3
Ignacio Allende 15, Del Carmen, Coyoacán
04000 Ciudad de México, CDMX
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